New wallet

I kept seeing this very cute wallet showing up in my Google reader, and I needed a new wallet.
My poor old Kate Spade wallet that I bought to match my very chic baby bag was showing its wear. Not surprising as it's 7 years old!

So I bought the e-book even though it's in German. Hey, I sew with German Farbenmix patterns, so I figured I could manage it. Plus the lovely Andrea told me that she would help me if I got stuck. In the end I muddled through with the excellent photos and my friend, Google Translate.

My next challenge was to pick fabrics. Initially I was thinking of some machine embroidery and then thought that I should keep it relatively simple the first time around, so I picked fabric that matches my El Porto bag.


I like it!

Will's lunch bag - the tutorial

Ok, so here goes. I don't usually do tutorials because I'm involved in the process when I create and grabbing a camera is the last thing I think to do. This is why this is mostly words and few pictures.

This lunch bag is designed to fit the Tupperware Sandwich Plus lunch box.


I have drawn the pattern pieces in half scale. This was so I could scan them. You might be able to enlarge them on a copier at 200%. Otherwise you can see the dimensions and shapes, so you can draw them with a ruler. The pieces do NOT include a seam allowance!!!! (this is because I didn't want to confuse you as I measured the lunch box in inches and my seam allowance is 1 cm). Please don't ask me why I did this! My brain works in strange ways and I am used to flipping around between imperial and metric measurements.

There are 3 pieces: the bag body, the flap and the strap.



When you cut out the pieces, you need to add a seam allowance! Pick whatever you like. I used 1cm.

I have to be honest and say I don't know how much fabric that you will need. I'd guesstimate and say about 0.5m of each fabric. You also need snaps or velcro (if you are going to use velcro read my comments at the end of the instructions because I'd choose to sew on the velcro while constructing the bag, not when it's finished. Although you could do it when it's finished. The stitching will just show on the outside of the flap.

You need to cut
For the body
2 x fabric for the outside
2 x fabric for the lining
4x pellon H630 (this is to give structure and a bit extra insulation)
2 x insul-bright

For the flap
1 x outside fabric
1 x lining fabric
2 x pellon H630
1 x insul-bright

For the straps
1 x outside fabric
2 x lining fabric (or can be the same as outside fabric)
2 x interfacing (I used a medium weight woven interfacing and cut it without the seam allowance)

I also inserted a base into my bag. I used Nicole M's tutorial on how to make a bag base with Fast-2-Fuse. If you have some Fast-2-Fuse sitting around, I would recommend making a base as it gives the bag nice stability since the bottom of it is quite large. But if you don't want to bother, I think it will be fine as the lunch box will stablise the bag when it is in there.

So now that you've cut that big stack of pieces. Iron all the pellon onto the pieces, so each body piece and each flap piece.
Iron interfacing onto the straps

As I sew, I press all seams open. I also used a heavy weight needle 100/16. You definitely need a sharp needle for sewing through multiple layers of fabric like a denim needle.

Lets start with the strap
1. With the strap pieces wrong side together sew down one long side. Turn right side out and press the seam. Also press under the seam allowance on the strap pieces. Topstitch the long edges of the strap. I also stitched rows of stitching down the length of the strap to stablise it (in addition to the topstitching there are 3 rows sewn down the strap about 0.5" apart)
Set aside the strap.

Now lets sew the flap
1. Put the flap pieces right sides together. Place the Insul-bright on top of the outside fabric. I used some pins, so everything doesn't shift. I also used a walking foot to sew the layers together. Sew down one side around the bottom and up the side. Leave the top of the flap open.

2. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners. Turn the flap right side out and press. Topstitch around the sides and bottom. Then baste the top of the flap closed within the seam allowance.
Set aside the flap.

Now for the body
Lining
1. With wrong sides togehter, sew the side seams and the bottom seam of the lining. Trim seams and clip corners. Press the seams open.

2. Now match up the side seam with the bottom seam, and sew across this diagonal. This creates the boxed shape on the bottom. Repeat on the other side.

Body
1. Sew the Insul-bright to the wrong side of the body pieces just within the seam allowance. You want the stitching close to where you are going to sew the seam, but not on the line or too far into the seam allowance. Stitching it down keeps the Insul-bright from shifting when you sew the pieces together. I like to be able to trim the Insul-bright back as close to the seam as possible which is why you don't want to baste it down near the edge.

2. Sew the outside body pieces together like the lining pieces, so side seams then bottom seam. Trim the Insul-bright close to the seam. Press. For my bag I topstitched the sides and bottom seam before i sewed the bottom edge seams. For my bag I stitched 6mm each side of the seam using my 1/4" foot. Then I sewed the bottom edge seams. together.

3. If you are going to do a bag base then you need to sort it out now. I did mine according to Nicole M's tute and attached it to the lining.

4. Mark the centre back of the back of the outside of the bag and the centre of the flap. Place the flap and outside bag with outer fabrics facing, matching up the centre marks. Pin and stitch the flap to the back of the bag within the seam allowance

5. Mark the centre points of the short strap edges. Match those points to the side seams and pin the strap with the outer fabric facing the outer fabric of the bag. Stitch the down on each side within the seam allowance. This will scrunch the bag up a little bit because the strap isn't super long.

6. Now turn the lining so that its right side is facing the right side of the outside of the bag. Match side seams and pin. Stitch the lining to the outside of the bag leaving an opening of about 15cm along the front of the bag. Trim the excess fabric in the seam allowance (but not near the opening. I find if I trim too much there it can be hard to press under the fabric Leave an opening along the front of the bag.

7. Pull the bag through the opening. Press the seam and press the edges of the opening. Pin closed the opening (or use some Wash Away Wonder Tape). Topstitch the top edge of the bag all the way around.

8. The bag is basically completed except for a closure. I used snaps because my snap press is one of my new toys. On the top flap, I placed snaps on each side (1" up from the bottom and 1" in from the side). The snaps on the body of the bag are approximately 1" in from the side "edge" and 1.5" up from the bottom edge (there is no seam there, but you can see the "edge" based on where the corner of the bag is. Same for the bottom "edge").

Here you can see the snaps


Velcro would make an excellent closure. I just wanted to use my snap press. If using Velcro I'd consider sewing the pieces of velcro on before construction. So sew the hook piece to the lining of the flap before construction and sewing the loop piece to the body of the bag before sewing it all together. That way the stitching from sewing the velcro will be hidden on the inside of the bag. I can't give you exact placement for the velcro, but you could figure it out based on the positioning of the snaps. I have to be honest and say that I decided where to place the snaps after I'd sewn the bag and picked the spot where the flap fell and I thought it looked good.

Have fun! If you've noticed an error, please let me know. I just knocked this up for Will, and never really had any intention of doing anything further. Feel free to make as many as you want. Make them to sell, just don't take credit for the design because that's totally not cool.

The weed

We call Moo the weed because she just keeps growing like crazy. I was once told it was all the good life forces in the organic & biodynamic food that we eat (although trust me, we have our share of unhealthy food too). Last week in the extreme heat Mollie chose to wore her Lore top.

I just noticed that I took this photo just over a year ago. And now her top is getting too small.

Being the nice mum that I am I offered to make her a new top. She wanted another velour on the front, so she rummaged through the velour stash and chose this sweet white fairy. I picked the fabrics, Chez Ami knits front and back and Hilco woven for the binding.


I wanted to take a photo of her wearing the top, but it's just been way too hot to venture outside. Thankfully today we had a cool change. 20 degree Celsius, BLISS!

Been dyeing, again!

Towards the end of last year I'd run down my stock of hand dyed organic cotton/spandex knit. This is the fabric that I use to make rainbow sleeve Antonia tops and rainbow Olivia dresses (and whatever else my mind dreams up). So this week I dyed some fabric.

This time I used a bit more dye to get slightly deeper shades. The photos is deceptive as the colours are richer and deeper in person. I dye my fabrics in a bucket with minimal agitation as I like the hand-dyed mottled look on these fabrics. If I wanted a solid even colour, I'd use my washing machine to dye them.

I also dyed some spandex French terry. I like to use this for Imke tops.

This batch is deeper in colour than the French terry that I dyed last year. I really like this fabric for pull over style tops in cooler weather. The spandex gives it a nice stretch and helps the fabric retain its shape. French terry has a smooth knit side with loops on the back.

Will is definitely in need of an Imke. He's outgrown his other ones.

Lunch bag for the boy

Will used this lunch box last year

He likes it because he can see everything in one place, but I don't like that I can't put a normal size piece of fruit in it. I hate sending stuff in a separate bag, so I decided that he needed a bag to fit his lunch box, drink bottle and whatever else I feel like putting in (like a banana).

I had a look for a tute because I thought that I couldn't be the only person who'd want a lunch bag that would fit this container, but I didn't find one easily, so I ended up drafting my own. I can give details if anyone wants them. When I am in the process of making, I am not very good at stopping to take photos especially the first time around.

Here's the lunch box in the bag


The front of the bag


The side view


Will modeling with the bag. He'd been running around all day without a shirt. I asked him to put one on for the photo and he chooses long sleeves (and too short in the body!).


Col called it a man bag when he saw it. I will admit that I think it looks pretty big, but it will be functional.

I fused some Pellon to the lining and outer fabric. I also used Insul-bright for insulation. I added a base to the bag using Fast-2-Fuse like Nicole M's tute. I also used a 16/100 heavy needle. The outer fabric is a Japanese robot print and the lining fabric is a batik from Indonesia that was given to me by a friend.

Sewing small things

I have this box of scraps and unwanted fabric that I'd given to Moo.  It was overflowing, so as part of the culling process, I thought I'd use some of the scraps to make some clothes for Moo's dolls.   If I used my fabric from my stash, the outfits would be a bit different (more coordinated!).

Also by using scraps, I don't feel so bad when my alteration or the pattern itself isn't quite right.  I used Simplicity pattern 5733 and the book "All Dolled Up" by Joan Hinds.   The leggings and t-shirt were from the Joan Hinds book.  For the dresses I just extended the t-shirt pattern.  I tried to add a bit of flare to the skirt like an Olivia.   The pants and raglan sleeve top are from the Simplicity pattern.

dresses & leggings

velour pants with raglan top & rose print shirt with jeans

I still like the Mod Kids Kyoko doll pattern best.  I need to make up the Frida doll pattern.  But in all fairness I picked the fabric specifically for the Kyoko dress, so naturally I'd like it more.  And Kyoko did take longer to put together than this mish mash of clothes.

I thought the rise in the pants with the Simplicity pattern was too high.  I didn't like the hem allowances in the Joan hinds book.   I also thought the neckline on the t-shirt was too high (I lowered it 1/4 inch).  I am thinking that this is to cover the neck join on the doll, but it makes everything look like a mock turtle neck.  The one item that I didn't photograph was the pink t-shirt which I made according to the pattern.  Do you think the necklines on the dress and red rose top look ok?

At the end of the day Moo is happy to have some new clothes for her dolls.

Cha Cha Cha Enchilada

It's been 4 years since I've been stateside, and I've been having a hankering for enchiladas.  I normally make either cheese enchiladas or chicken enchiladas with blue corn tortillas and green sauce. 

Right before Christmas I put in an order at a Mexican food place that is luckily located not too far from my house! 

The impetus for the shopping was that I can't stand the corn tortillas sold in the shops here.  They are nothing like what I used to get when I lived in Texas for obvious reasons.  Since I own a tortilla press, I figured it was time to buy some masa harina again and make them myself.   We've had corn tortillas a couple of times since then.

Then this week I stumbled upon The Homesick Texan blog.  And while I was looking through the recipes, I saw one for Squash Enchiladas.   I thought that it sounded interesting, and I had what I needed already in the house!   I try to make a couple of meatless meals a week, and this recipe fit the bill.   I don't really go on about it, but like most every one I try to stretch the food budget.  We eat a lot of organic produce, and it comes with a price.

Now I did make a few changes.   I didn't have cascabel chiles, but I do usually have guajillo chiles as they are my favourite, so I used guajillos.  I didn't used tinned tomatoes because I didn't have a tin of whole tomatoes.  I had some ripe ones that needed to be eaten, so I skinned and seeded them and cooked them with the onion and garlic for the sauce.   And I used 4 yellow patty pan squash because we don't have the same yellow crookneck squash that you find in the States.  And I'll confess I used some pizza cheese (a mix of mozzarella, cheddar, parmesan) on the top with some added Nimbin Natural cheese.  I was just using what I had and was convenient.  I have to confess that I am hanging out for Costco to open in Sydney, so I can get Monterey jack cheese.

Stack of freshly made corn tortillas



Guajillo chiles soaking after being dry-fried


Onions, garlic and tomatoes sauteing up for the sauce


The actual sauce after the ingredients go in the blender.  The sauce is cooked again after blending ingredients.  This is typical of enchilada sauces, and I think it helps to meld the flavours.


The zucchini and squash filling which tasted very nice all on its own.


Tortillas get dipping the sauce and rolled up with the filling


Here they are out of the oven after having all the sauce poured on them and cheese put on top.


I had the blender out to make the sauce, so Col suggested making margaritas to go with the enchiladas.


The margaritas were a good call.  The enchiladas came out quite hot, as in spicy hot.  I noticed my chipotle in adobo was really hot.  I wasn't too concerned about the heat of the dish because I knew Will wasn't going to eat it.   I served the enchiladas with a simple salad of lettuce, tomato and corn with a vinaigrette.   It helped cool the heat along with the margarita!   I am always blown away by Moo's tolerance for spicy food.  She ate two enchiladas, the same amount as me and Col.  I am no wimp with spicy foods, but both Col and I kept commenting that dinner had quite a kick.  You know when your lips are still burning 5 minutes after you are done eating. 

I would definitely make these again.  We really enjoyed them.